Looking Back on August...
Most of August was tied up with the festivities and celebrations for Carnival. Carnival is a yearly cultural festival common to many of the Caribbean islands and parts of South America. Its original time-frame was before Lent (the same time as Mardi Gras in New Orleans). Like Mardi Gras, it was supposed to be a "last hurrah" before Lent. People would get out their last bits of "evil" before buckling down to suffer for their sins. However, for tourist purposes, the islands have separated their Carnival timing and now Grenada celebrates in August. Although true Carnival is only on Monday and Tuesday, the island prepares for months prior. During the Carnival months, there are music concerts, events, and "mas camps" to make costumes for the big parades. On Carnival Monday and Tuesday, there are big parades, the largest being the "Fancy Mas". In these parades "bands" of people parade through in elaborately designed and decorated costumes. Groups of people spend months creating them and every group hopes their band will win. Many groups theme their costumes, and it's like a Vegas Strip parade of glitter and glam. Despite the heat and sun, the participants walk and dance through like celebrities.
I must admit, I was a bit apprehensive about the whole idea of Carnival. Close friends were in a "band" for mas camp, but I was not sure what to expect for my first year. I figured I would take it a bit easier, and then I could do more next year. The Friday of Carnival, I went with friends to the Soca Monarch competition. Soca is a Caribbean dance music here, somewhat of an upbeat calypso. Different artists compete to win the title of best artist. This year, a man that calls himself Mr. Killer took the title for a song called "Warrior". I decided to take it easy on Saturday, knowing that Sunday night through Tuesday night would be hectic. Both Saturday and Sunday nights there were steel pan and calypso competitions, however, most concerts go very late, and I knew I needed some sleep. Sunday night late--wee hours of Monday--is J'Ouvert morning. In French, it means "the opening". Traditionally, men would paint up their bodies in black motor oil. They would represent the "devil", as if the devil had only a couple days to be around, and then come Lent, good would prevail. This practice is called "Jab Jab". However, many individuals do not want to be covered in used motor oil (can you blame them?!). Instead, people will paint up with paint. Depending on which group you join, you can be a number of colors. Some friends and I played with a cell phone company, Digicel, this year. We were painted red from head to toe. Obviously, you plan to wear some old clothes that you do not care much about. We congregated at about 3AM and started parading around 4:30AM. Everyone comes together in their various paints and dances through the streets in a big parade. Lots of spectators come to watch the festivities. It was a lot of fun, and hopefully, I will get those pictures soon. We got home around 10AM and went to sleep. We then woke up mid-afternoon and after a few hours of hang time (playing Texas Hold 'Em and other games), we had to get ready for Monday Night Mas. Again, you "play" with a group of people...which essentially means parading with them wearing special t-shirts and fun accessories. We played with a different cell phone company (Cable & Wireless) and received t-shirts, batons, whistles, hats, bandanas, and glitter. It was another parade that went from about 9PM until we decided we were finished around 2:30AM. It's a long time on your feet. Of course, we went to sleep late again, and then were up earlier on Tuesday so we could see the Fancy Mas parade. A lot of good friends played in a band with a sailor theme. I also realized I had a lot of other friends in different bands. It was fun, and we cheered everyone on. On the second lap of the parade, it's called "Last Lap" where everyone can join in and parade around. It was a lot of fun. It would be the end of Carnival. At midnight on Carnival Tuesday (early Wednesday), everything stops. The music that would have been blasting throughout the streets would end. Bass beats would cease. Instead clean-up crews would arrive and try to make sense of the streets that were once the town of St. George's. Walking around Wednesday it would be difficult to place a large event such as Carnival in the town--with the exception of J'Ouvert paint stains on the streets and whatnot. Suddenly, things went back to normal. However, I am not sure how many people would make it to work the following day. Overall, it was incredible. I've been craving Carnival since the day it ended. I had no idea a festival could be so fun. I miss the music, the dancing, and costumes. I am certain next year will be even better!
August 2, 2006
Jewish Stars in Grenada?
I first started my Peace Corps service one year ago. I knew that in the middle of my Chicago summer, I would be departing for the Eastern Caribbean—a land of white sand beaches, endless coconut and palm trees, and a lifestyle that would be much more different than that of which I was living at home. As a large group of 49 trainees, we departed for Miami and then for St. Lucia, where we trained together in various areas of community development for almost one month. We lived with host families, and ventured to a near-by secondary school for the bulk of our training. When applicable, we would participate in community-based activities to learn more about the culture, lifestyle, language, and island. We were taught how to cook local West Indian dishes, how to hand wash entire loads of laundry, how much a rainy day can affect the drying time of that laundry, how to speak a local Creole dialect, the cultural dances, and more. During our first phase of training, we were unaware of our final destinations. In our last week, after meeting with the Peace Corps directors of the various islands, we were given our fate. I would be moving to Grenada, a windward island in the south-eastern Caribbean, about 100 miles from the coast of South America.
Since I knew very little about the differences in culture between the islands, I was happy to go anywhere. I learned that Grenada was the southern-most Caribbean island where Peace Corps Volunteers were placed. It has a population of roughly 100,000 and is approximately 133 square miles. The smaller Grenadine islands of Carriacou and Petit Martinique are also included in the nation of Grenada. All I really knew about Grenada was that the United States had intervened to restore the disarray left by a revolutionary government in 1983, and that because of the overpopulation of dogs; we would be receiving rabies shots.
When I reached Grenada, I was excited to take everything in: the bright colors, new foods, language dialect, beautiful landscape, the positive Grenadian attitudes, and… Jewish Stars? I was shocked to see the Star of David all over the island. In fact, I’ll sometimes see the word “Shalom” as a windshield sticker, or written on a billboard, displayed for everyone to see. Were my eyes deceiving me? I was told that Judaism did not exist in Grenadian culture. I soon learned that these were symbols of different religion, one that would have similarities with Judaism to some extent. This religion was Rastafarianism.
When most people think of a “Rasta”, they picture Bob Marley, dread-locks, Jamaica, and illegal substances. However, the religion goes much deeper than the superficial characteristics that have been adopted by the American culture. Rastafarianism is a religion that started with the Black Jamaican activist, Marcus Garvey in the early 1900’s. Through his prophecies, he preached for his followers “to look to Africa where a Black King would be crowned”. Ras Tafari Makonnen was in fact crowned the emperor of Ethiopia in 1930. He took the title, “Emperor Haile Selassie, King of Kings, Lord of Lords, and Conquering Lion of the Tribe of Judah”. Quickly, he was viewed as the Black Messiah, present to free the black people from suffering and white oppression. Rastafarians believe themselves to be one of the lost tribes of Israel. Eventually, they will be liberated from the corrupt white world of Babylon and delivered into the promised lands of Ethiopia or Zion.
One afternoon, after I hiked to a nearby beach for some solitude, I met a Rastafarian woman, Natasha, and her children. We started talking and I began asking questions about Rastafarianism. I was curious as to the religious decrees that the head should be covered, hair let to grow long, and dietary restrictions. At face value, some of these principles reminded me of the strict ideals of Orthodox Judaism. Natasha explained that the Bible states, “They shall not make baldness upon their heads, neither shall they shave off the corner of their beard, nor make cuttings in the flesh”. This was present in the Book of Leviticus (21:5), the same portion of scripture that requires the use of a yarmulke or head covering for Jews, as well as the reasoning that beards and hair are left to grow. Because Rastafarians do not believe in cutting their flesh, they resort to traditional forms of bush medicine and treatment. Most adhere to very strict natural, organic, vegetarian diets as well. During spiritual meditation, their communal sessions are paired with prayers and poems. Over the years, different sects of Rastafarianism have developed, and some are less strict than others.
The mainstream acceptance of Rastafarian culture really can be credited to the musical style of reggae. Reggae is used to spread the ideals and expectations of Rastafarianism through music, and can be heard not only in the Caribbean, but world-wide. Such legends as Bob Marley and the Wailers were the musical breakthrough for reggae, but their legacy continues to live on through the sounds of new musicians. In fact, the reggae style is even being portrayed by artists that are not black and not Rastafarian; an up and coming Jewish reggae artist, Matisyahu, to name one.
Before moving to the Eastern Caribbean, reggae music was my only exposure to Rastafarianism. However, living in a society where Rastafarianism is woven so richly into the culture has given me the opportunity to understand a little more about it. Religious tolerance is so important right now, especially when people are being persecuted and silenced for their beliefs internationally. What makes religion so interesting is that usually there is more we have in common than not. The similarities can be used to bring people together as opposed to distancing them apart. For me, just knowing I can see a familiar symbol of Judaism from time to time can sometimes give me comfort, even if the religion does not really exist here. I hope to continue learning about Rastafarianism, other local religions and about the similarities we share. I’m just thankful I still have another year!